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Abdelaziz Stati Wraps Up the Fez Festival of Amazigh Culture

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Abdelaziz Stati - Amazigh flag around his neck, Moroccan flag on his chair

Born in 1961 in El Jadidida, Alarbaoui Abdelaziz (Stati) is probably the most popular Chaâbi performer in Morocco. Abdelaziz Stati is appreciated for the Aita style at which he excels. Stati owes his nickname to the fact that his left hand with which he plays traditional violin, is six-fingered.

In his childhood, he was inspired by his uncle Bouchaib Ben Rahhal, who was a Chaabi artist and a violin player. He chose to play the violin, and his dream was to become a great violin player. In the late 1970’s, he began to play the violin with the band of Sttat. Indeed, the band needed a violin player.

In the early 1980’s he had the opportunity to get experience from great musicians like Salah Smaili, Salah Elmeknassi, Assahib ben Almaati and others. In 1985, Abdelaziz founded his band of Chaabi music with two fellow musicians. He soon became a pop star and started to perform in special occasions the Moroccan middle-class.

He started releasing his albums in 1983 with "Almouima Essabra Dima". Later on, he released "Wa Baeed Al Zinne", "Moulate Laayoune Lakbare", "Moulay Ettahar", and "Passport W Visa". His first hit "Almouima Essabra Dima" was re-performed by the King of Rai Cheb Khaled. Stati is considered as one of the best Chaabi artists of Morocco. His concert in the "Mawazine" Festival, in 2009, was attended by 70 thousand spectators.

There was not a lot of publicity, but the rumour that Stati was to appear at the Amazigh Festival was enough to pack out the large Bab El Makina venue.

However, the audience had to wait as the first performance was by a flamenco troupe from Spain. It was a delightful way to wait. Not as polished as some of the performances seen during the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music, it was nevertheless a raw, gutsy performance with some great flamenco singing and a impassioned dance segments.


The crowd were unaware that they were in for a surprise treat until a group of Hamadcha performers joined the flamenco troupe in a few minutes of Andalusian fusion.

Abderrahim Amrani Marrakchi unfurls the Amazigh flag

The appearance on stage of the Hamadcha leader, Abderrahim Amrani Marrakchi with a small group of Hamadcha musicians was greeted with a roar of appreciation by the crowd. Marrakchi is a consummate showman and he didn't disappoint either with his trademark throaty singing or his enthusiasm for joining with the flamenco dancers  His flamenco style probably explains why he should stick to Hamadcha ceremonies - but nevertheless thew audience loved it. He was joined on stage by Hassaniya el Badissi from California and Aissawa singer Mohssin el Arafa of the Aissawa Brotherhood from bruxelles;

"What do I want?   Passport wa visa!"

However, the crowd had come for their beloved Abdelaziz Stati and when he walked onto the stage he was greeted like a national folk hero. 

His violin playing is an extraordinary mix of pyrotechnics and gymnastics and, like Marrakchi before him, he is a great showman. And while his staccato and pizzicato work is first class, it was his message that the people had come to hear. 

"Arabs or Amazigh? To me they are all the same. We are the one people," he said and the audience applauded wildly.

Earlier in the festival the audience were treated to a performance by the remarkable Najat Aabadou and like her, Stati is famous for his challenging and rebellious attitude towards the things that irk most Moroccans. All he had to do was open his mouth and start asking "What is it I want" and the huge crowd roared "Passport wa Visa".  There are countries where such an open challenge to governments to loosen up would cause serious problems, thankfully this was Morocco and in front of the audience a policeman and a security guard joined in the audience response.


At the end of the performance Stati was given an award by one of the major forces behind the Amazigh Festival, Moha Ennaji.  

The capacity crowd - told to stay in their seats

You can't stop the children dancing

The only sour note of the entire festival was a decision by someone to attempt to stop the audience dancing. In Morocco that is akin to telling people they must stop breathing. Moroccans are born to dance and when their favourite musician is on stage they can't stop themselves. 

However, a very heavy-handed group of private security officials inflamed the crowd by ordering them back in their seats. It failed, of course, but left a bad taste and what could have been a triumphant night to remember was sadly diminished. 

To see a nine year old boy in tears because he had been told to stop dancing was not a good note on which to end an otherwise superb festival.

At major festivals security are given workshops in how to be audience friendly . Moroccan security guards need to start taking lessons. 

Despite the heavy-handed security, the people prevailed
Story and photographs: Sandy McCutcheon

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Picturing Fez: Afoot with the Fes Photography Workshop 2013

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The souks and streets of Medina Fez are a paradise of imagery for photographers. Nuances of light and colour dance from narrowly separated walls and activity waxes exotic at nearly every corner.


Such was the stage too for the Fez Photography Workshop’s week-long debut in June. The co-creation of photographer and Photojournalefounder/photographer, John Horniblow and Corbis Images photographer and founder of The Compelling Image, David Bathgate, the workshop took participants a step beyond what typically picture snappers capture. 



At invitation, photographers went behind closed doors bordering the 9th-century medina’s maze of passageways to document life and living areas within. The result was a photographic “slice of life” that most foreign visitors never get a glimpse of, let alone record with their cameras.

But pictures didn’t stop at the medina gates. They extended to the New City, where the lens of one workshop photographer turned on a busy martial arts studio. What he came away with was a vivid portfolio of youngsters and adults - male and female, captured in a flurry of disciplined movement and mental concentration - all in 35mm form.




From a comfortable base at the Dar Finn in the heart of the old city, there were few free moments. Between street photography, scheduled shoots, instructor presentations and lively discussion wherever and whenever possible, June 15 - 21 flew past like a magic carpet. In finale, work produced was in-depth, stunning and the “vibe” enthusiastic - right to workshop end.




For information on next year’s Fez Photography Workshop, and others offered by Morocco Photography Expeditions, visit their website and become a Facebook friend    

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Ramadan to Start Wednesday in Morocco

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Ramadan 1434 will begin on Wednesday in Morocco. In a statement the government said that the crescent moon announcing Ramadan, could not be observed on Monday and therefore July 10th will be the first day of fasting.

Ramadan is the ninth month of the Muslim calendar and observing the fast is one of the five pillars of Islam, with the profession of faith, prayer, almsgiving and pilgrimage. Fasting, which lasts 29 to 30 days, begins at dawn and ends at sunset. Fasting also means abstaining from drinking, smoking or have sex during daylight hours.

This year - year of the Hegira 1434 - Ramadan is expected to end on the 8th or 9th of August in Morocco, the day when Muslims celebrate Eid Al Fitr.

Arab Gulf states and Egypt have agreed with Morocco and announced that the first day of the Muslim holy month of Ramadan will start Wednesday.

“Nobody has reported having seen the moon of the new lunar month this evening, so it was decided to consider Tuesday, tomorrow, as the complementary day of the current month of Shaaban and that Wednesday will be the first day of Ramadan,” the Saudi Press Agency (SPA) reported.

A billion and a half Muslims globally are anticipating the beginning of the month-long fast, according to Reuters.


Ramadan kareem - Ramadan Mubarak

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The Conference of the Birds - The Theme for Fes Festival of World Sacred Music 2014

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The Conference of the Birds, is an epic of approximately 4500 lines written in Persian by the poet Farid ud-Din Attar. It is also now - officially - the theme of the 2014 Fes Festival of World Sacred Music


The ocean can be yours; why should you stop
Beguiled by dreams of evanescent dew?
The secrets of the sun are yours, but you
Content yourself with motes trapped in beams.
― فرید الدین عطار, The Conference of the Birds

It is a great theme from the Sufi tradition and should serve the festival well with its imagery and content.

La Conférence des oiseaux - The Conference of the Birds


In the poem, the birds of the world gather to decide who is to be their king, as they have none. The hoopoe, the wisest of them all, suggests that they should find the legendary Simorgh, a mythical Persian bird roughly equivalent to the western phoenix. The hoopoe leads the birds, each of whom represent a human fault which prevents man from attaining enlightenment. When the group of thirty birds finally reach the dwelling place of the Simorgh, all they find is a lake in which they see their own reflection.

Besides being one of the most celebrated examples of Persian poetry, this book relies on a clever word play between the words Simorgh – a mysterious bird in Iranian mythology which is a symbol often found in sufi literature, and similar to the phoenix bird – and "si morgh" – meaning "thirty birds" in Persian.

It was in China, late one moonless night,
The Simorgh first appeared to mortal sight –
He let a feather float down through the air,
And rumours of its fame spread everywhere;

Its most famous section is:

Come you lost Atoms to your Centre draw,
And be the Eternal Mirror that you saw:
Rays that have wander'd into Darkness wide
Return and back into your Sun subside.



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Moroccan News Briefs #100

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A round up of the week's news including Ramadan TV programming

Arabic Programme to Relocate From Egypt to Morocco

The Arabic Overseas Flagship Program is relocating from Alexandria, Egypt to Meknes, having determined that restrictions in place to ensure students’ safety were undermining opportunities for informal language and cultural learning.

The unrest in Egypt looks set to continue for some time and with the fatal stabbing of an American college student in Alexandria the U.S. State Department has warned against non-essential travel to Egypt in light of the growing political and social unrest, prompting universities to reevaluate their study abroad programs there.

Dan Davidson, the president of the American Councils for International Education, which administers the program, said, “In recent days, it had become clear that in order to guarantee the safety of our students in Egypt, it had become necessary to establish curfews and limitations on their movements including escort and shuttle arrangements to and from classes at the university,. This means that the students were essentially having to give up many of the kinds of informal language contacts and cultural exploration that overseas immersion study is designed to provide,”

The program's Egyptian partner institution, Alexandria University, will be transferring some of its language teachers to Morocco to continue working with students.

The year long Arabic Overseas Flagship Program began in early June and involves 18 students from five U.S. universities. The Flagship language programs are funded by the U.S. Department of Defense’s National Security Education Program.


American Schools and Universities in Morocco to be Licensed

The Moroccan press is reporting that the Moroccan Prime Minister, Abdelilah Benkirane,  is about to "tighten the screws" on American schools operating in Morocco.

Abdelilah Benkirane's government will finalise a Moroccan-American draft convention, that will lay out strict regulations on the operation in Morocco of schools and American universities.

The Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Cooperation will bring the draft convention forward for debate in government.  Under the terms of the agreement, the Ministry would give licenses to American schools American universities with no religious curriculum, and that avoid Christian proselytizing activities even in a subliminal way.

American schools will also be required to provide compulsory courses on the languages, cultures and history of Morocco. To do this they will be required to employ Moroccan teachers authorized by the Moroccan Ministry of National Education, and subject to inspections.

The annual holiday schedule will not be defined by only American holidays, but must also include all Moroccan national and religious holidays.

A pure Arabic prayer room will be required in all institutions. According of the terms of this new draft Moroccan-American agreement, the tuition in these schools must be paid by the parents of Moroccan students in Dirhams and not Dollars.

There will also be strict guidelines about the teaching of Moroccan geography with a special requirement that the American institutions must use complete maps of Morocco and not ones with the area of Moroccan Sahara amputated. The comes at a time when there is pressure on both Google Maps and Facebook to correct their maps to include the Sahara. To this end there is also an online petition.

A map of Morocco - "Correct and intact"

The correction of maps is deemed very important for the defense, protection and respect of Morocco’s territorial integrity and complies with the article 38 of the constitution which states that “all citizens contribute to the defense of the country and its territorial integrity against any aggression or threat.”

The activists behind this cause, which was launched on June 29th, seek to attain 1,000,000 signatures. They also call on all Moroccan internet users to upload the official, correct and intact map of Morocco on all digital platforms on the internet so that it can become a reference in all major search engines.


Acts of bravery in Marrakech explosions

This week a series of explosions occurred in Marrakech's Azli district when a truck loaded with butane gas canisters caught fire.  Several sources have indicated that the truck driver and his helper were carrying dozens of gas tanks for distribution to retail merchants during a period of extremely high temperature.

They noticed their mirrors that a gas canisters was smoking and may have caught fire. The situation was very dangerous because a huge and deadly explosion could have taken place at any moment.

However, by mutual agreement, the driver and his mate decided to drive the truck as far as possible, to avoid the inhabited parts of Azli neighborhood. At the risk of their lives, the two men remained in the truck their until they reached an empty area. Just as they arrived in an open area the gas cylinders began to explode causing a huge "mushroom of fire".  Fortunately the men were not injured and there were no other casualties.


Morocco cleans up its highways

The National Motorway Authority of Morocco (ADM) have announced that by 2015 all highways will be equipped with recycling platforms in 2015 (WMD).  The first equipment for selective waste collection has already begun to be deployed.

On the outskirts of motorways and service areas, the amount of waste collected each year is 3,000 tons, said the ADM in a statement, noting that this amount includes several categories of recyclable waste, including bottles water, soda cans, paper and cardboard.

A trial by ADM was implemented in January 2013  with the building of an ecological platform for sorting and compaction of waste collected on the outskirts of the Rabat to Larache highway. The first results from this site showed a positive impact on waste management with the recycling of a significant part of the waste products.


Art Culture and Ramadan TV

As in previous years, the three main channels of Moroccan television have placed their bets on comedy to fill their programming of Ramadan.

Al Aoula's latest announcement includes three comedy series for the sacred month: Rass Rass lmahyen starring Kamal Kadimi and Ilham Ouaziz,  Danya Hanya which tells "the story of four young roommates from different cultures starting their working lives in Casablanca", and Hniya, M'barek and Messoud.

For his part, 2M announces the return with great fanfare a "dynamic duo" comic for the month of Ramadan. This is Khadija Assad and her husband Aziz Saadallah. Both actors will star in a new sitcom entitled Dour biha chibani ago. Another couple will also be featured on the small screen through a series of 30 episodes of 3 minutes each. Hassan El Fad and Dounia Boutazout will interpret a "couple" like no other.

The Bnat Lalla Mennana, an adaptation of the theatrical play The House of Bernarda Alba by Federico Garcia Lorca, will return for a second season. With its success in 2012, the series will again take viewers in the heart of Chefchaouen and its famous little blue houses.

Médi1 TV offers Adil Imam, the 73 year old Egyptian actor, who plays the lead role of Al Arraf series. He will be "accompanied by other Egyptian stars such as Hassan and Hussein Fahmi Houssni in the comic role of a crook and fugitive from justice in Egypt today."

Adil Imam

Adil Imam said the new series, written by Youssef Maati and directed by Rami Imam again, belongs to the Comedy genre, where he plays the role of a sharper, who goes to jail but escapes following January revolution, and motivated by the chaotic situation the country falls in, he decides to run for presidency. Like all his previous works, Al-Arraf is characterised by its sarcastic nature especially when highlighting corruption in the political system.

The Médil channel will also air a new season of Lyam Deret. The Moroccan series is described as  "a more intense dramatic intrigue and mysterious."

The political strife in Cairo has cause major problems for the production of Egyptian soaps. Dalal Hamza, a producer at the Egyptian Radio and Television Union, says the number of Ramadan TV series has fallen from 55 last year to 23 this season.

The total cost of production cost this year was 900 million Egyptian pounds ($128 million) while last year it reached close to $1.5 billion pounds ($213.6 million).

Production conditions "are surrounded by lots of problems, especially the general financial crisis and decline in advertising, as well as the security situation that hinders filming, which has prompted the industry to rely heavily on studio filming", she said.

Hamza said the costliest series this year is Al-Arraf, with production costs soaring to 50 million pounds ($7.1 million).


Morocco will delay price rises until after Ramadan 

The shelving of  planned deregulation of prices for some subsidized products until after Ramadan follows controversy over its announcement of the move before the Muslim fasting month when millions of Moroccans spend heavily.

The Moroccan government, under pressure from the International Monetary Fund, is seeking to cut back on subsidies that burned up 53.36 billion dirhams of public money in 2012 or 6.4 pct of Morocco's GDP.

But the reforms also mean pain for households used to subsidized oil, gas, sugar and other staple goods.

"We will launch the automatic price adjustment after Ramadan," Finance Minister Nizar Baraka told Reuters. "We will announce the exact day after the sacred month taking into consideration the commodity prices in the international markets."

General Affairs and Governance Minister Mohamed Najib Boulif said last week that the government would start automatic price adjustment within weeks for fuel - except cooking gas - and sugar.

The government expects the shift to cut spending on subsidies by 20 percent, to 42 billion dirhams ($5 billion) or less. That is within the limit fixed by the 2013 budget, which is based on an oil price of $105.

Boulif noted that if oil prices were lower than $105 then Moroccans would wind up paying less than if the subsidy scheme had been left in place.

"The adjustment will be in both directions. When (oil) prices are less than $105, that will let Moroccans consider that it is not necessarily a bad thing," he argued last week.

The government, however, may also set a different pricing regime of diesel fuel to protect the transportation sector and avoid a snowball effect on prices.

"We are considering how to set a different pricing regime for diesel used in the transport of people and goods, but it is in discussions and not yet decided," Transport Minister Abdelaziz Rebbah told Reuters earlier this week.

That may sharply reduce the savings for the government as the transport sector burns up around 65 percent of the national consumption of oil, according to ministry figures.

A junior party is threathening to quit the governing coalition unless Prime Minister Abdelilah Benkirane moderated plans for the sweeping cuts. Benkirane, backed by the IMF to the tune of $6.2 billion under a precautionary credit line agreed last year, insists the reforms will go ahead.

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A Five Year Project Brings Fresher Fish

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Derek Workman reports that the US Millennium Challenge Corporation's Small-Scale Fisheries Project is a success and popular with the fishermen.



Wander along the port at Essaouira at around noon on most days and you will see fishing boats unloading their shimmering catches as they’ve done for hundreds of years. Boxes of fish are set up on stalls or simply laid along the quayside, where locals buy their lunch and restaurants stock up for their fancy diners, the price depending on how good you are at haggling or what’s left as the crushed ice they lie on melts.

The life of a small scale fisherman has always been a hard one; up a four a.m. to check if the weather will allow them to put to sea, paying out for petrol and boat rental, even if the nets come home empty, and splitting the proceeds of the sale of his catch with crew members. But the five-year U.S. Millennium Challenge Corporation’s Small-Scale Fisheries Project aims to improve the lives of fishermen throughout Morocco, typically some of the country’s poorest residents by modernizing the means of catching, storing and marketing fish, and help fishermen get access to both local and export markets. As much as anything, the project is helping the vendors who trundle through small villages selling the fish they buy on the quayside each day.

On most days, Essaid Sadik would arrive at a port shortly after the first fishing boats docked. He would buy what he could and then drive to nearby villages and start selling – usually sardines and other small fish. As temperatures rose during the day, the fish sometimes began to spoil, occasionally making him and his customers sick.

Now Sadik is one of about 600 mobile fish vendors to receive a new heavy-duty, three-wheeled motorcycle and training through the project. His motorbike is equipped with an insulated ice chest to help preserve the quality of the fish and its value, and can keep fish fresh for up to 48 hours. He has received training which covered marketing, proper hygiene, product handling, quality preservation, small business management, access to financial services, and formation of associations and cooperatives.

Sadik is proud of the uniform his cooperative provides, white coats, matching hats and Wellington boots. “It’s not just nice – it’s really, really nice,” said Sadik, a father of two. “We have a newfound dignity because of the project.”


Regular View from Fez reporter Derek Workman is an English journalist living in Valencia City, Spain but is a regular traveller around Morocco. To read more about life in Spainvisit Spain Uncovered. Articles and books can also be found atDigital Paparazzi.


This post was originally seen on Villa Dinari

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The Singing Alarm Clock - The "Dkak" - A Fading Moroccan Ramadan Tradition

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Omar Bihmidine writing from Sidi Ifni for Morocco World News reminisces on the "Dkak" tradition which Omar says is on the verge of extinction



Who still remembers “dkak“, the man who wakes people up for Shour- the meal served just before dawn prayer- during Ramadan? While the elder generation still remembers him, the bulk of the young generation of Moroccans does not even know what he stood for.

As I was asking some friends on social media networks about this tradition, I was stunned and saddened to learn that most of them did not know much to say about this emblematic person in the Moroccan tradition. Thank God, in some old cities, such as Fez, Meknes, Tangier, Tetouan, Marrakesh, Sale and Rabat, especially in the old neighborhoods, some people still struggle to keep this tradition alive.

The ‘dkak‘ uses different traditional instruments, such as the bell, and passes by houses one after another while ringing the bell and uttering words that signal the time of Shour. As time goes by, it, however, appears that this Moroccan golden tradition is on the verge of extinction.

From one place to another, the ‘dkaks‘ hold different attitudes towards this tradition. While some of them deem it as a hobby and practice it for religious purposes, some others resort to it to earn their living during Ramadan, especially that some families bestow a few coins on the man devoted to waking them up.


Many fasters used to count on this man, and they so much cherished hearing his call to ‘ Shour‘. At the time, the call even became an indispensable part of their fasting during Ramadan.

On the other hand, some people can no longer stand hearing the man calling them because, for them, he is just making noise and preventing them from sleeping well. With the alarm clocks beside their beds, people are no longer in need of the man. Worse is that he has become a nuisance to them.

In all frankness, we are nostalgic about this man. No one can deny that he did a noble job and served us well when alarm clocks were absent. Yet, unfortunately, this job is becoming extremely rare, especially now that technology which permeates every aspect of our lives would suffice to wake us up at the appointed time. Now, as Moroccans rely on the alarm clock, they started already forgetting about their past tradition.

Even if there might be some Moroccans who still take delight in this noble job, no one still dares to practice it for fear that they may be looked upon as nuisances to people.

It is high time Moroccans looked back on how they used to live in the past during Ramadan. Observing this tradition disappear must sadden us. Hence, we must at least owe a great debt of gratitude to the ‘dkaks‘, and why not even dedicate a special day to observing this golden tradition. Otherwise, we will continue to lose the genuine peculiarities that make up the Moroccan identity.

The article was first published on Morocco World News and is republished with permission 

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Once Upon a Time in Ramadan - Ramadan Diary

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Ramadan in Morocco is very much a family affair but what of those who are on their own? The View from Fez would like to thank an anonymous Wikileaks source that details a day in the life of a chocoholic's experience of just one day during Ramadan.



Fez Medina Morocco - Ramadan (2013)

Day two:

11 am:  There is a frozen Mars Bar in my fridge. I am dreaming of eating it when the heat wakes me. Or maybe it is the cat. I look at the clock. It really does say 11 am. I can't remember when I was asleep at this time of the morning - ever. Well, maybe in some other country and cooler climate when I had got home from an all night bash and stumbled into bed at 7am.

Craving coffee, I mumble 'good morning' to the cat and haul myself out of bed.

I am half way down the stairs to the kitchen when I realise the world outside my walls is totally silent. There are no yelling kids on their way to school, no clopping of donkey or mule hooves on the cobbled streets. Totally silent. It is Ramadan and I am probably the only person in the entire Medina who is awake.

The fog in my brain clears. Of course everyone is asleep. It's the second day of Ramadan. Which also means no coffee. Not for another nine hours. No coffee. no water, no ice cream. The Mars Bar in the fridge is safe for a while yet. The cat joins me and reminds me that cats don't have to fast. After I feed the cat I check the thermometer in the courtyard. It is 37 degrees Celsius. I go into the downstairs salon, close the curtains, switch on the fan and, stretching out on the sofa, go back to sleep.

2 pm: There is a loud bang. A fuse has blown and the fan has overheated and stopped. For a moment I wonder if it is sweat trickling down my face, or if I am melting. The courtyard thermometer reads 39.


2.20 pm. Cold shower. Fix the fuse. Then I make the mistake of checking if the refrigerator is still working. The door swings open and the light comes on. In front of me are all the temptations. A jug of iced lemon-water. A packet of Norwegian smoked salmon, a bottle of Schweppes Tonic, a large slice of watermelon glistens at me from inside its protection of cling-wrap. In the door are two bottles of Sidi Ali and a 2012 Entre-Deux Mers. The Mars Bar sits on the middle shelf, mocking me.

I don't open the freezer. The vanilla bean ice cream is there, knowing it is safe for another six hours.

5 pm: Another cold shower and then I head to the souk. Every single person in Fez is in the souk. The price of everything seems to have gone up. I buy some bessara in a plastic bag, a baguette, some beautiful dates and ten eggs.

6 pm: Not that I am watching the clock, but with only a couple of hours to go I excuse my rising sense of excitement - and my obsession with the time. Maybe my watch is running slow? I check my phone. It is the same on the computer. It is still 6 pm.



6.50 pm: Four eggs are hard boiled. Dates are split and stuffed with walnuts. Iced water is on the table. Bessara is in the pot, ready to heat. Table is prepared. Again the cat reminds me it is not fasting. I feed it and give it a bowl of cool water

7.30 pm: Temperature down to 32 degrees. I make a pot of coffee. I peel the eggs. Everything is ready.

7.40 pm: The cannon fires twice. Or maybe it is two cannons. From all the mosques the cry rings out 'Allah Akbar'. And in a thousand households people are saying the same thing - 'Bismallah'... and a thousand dates are eaten, a thousand glasses of milk are drunk. 'B'saha'... and in the fridge the Mars Bar thinks it's safe - not for long.

8.30 pm:  The dishes are washed. The Mars Bar is gone.

10.00 pm  Around the Medina the rooms flicker blue as the latest episode of the Egyptian soap opera unfolds.

11:00 pm. Sleep.

1.30 am: A yelling, knocking and drumming wakes me. It is the Dkak- the man who goes through the streets and wakes the Medina up for the last meal before the fast begins again.



2.00 am:  The cannon roars its warning to eat now.  So after showering I take some fresh basil, pine-nuts, garlic and parmesan and make pesto. While the pasta is boiling and the chicken pieces browning, I blend some cold milk and avocado, banana and yogurt.

2.30 am: A friend phones to make sure I am awake and eating. 'Drink plenty of water,' he advises. 'And eat chicken or lamb.' I explain what I have cooked and I know he is grinning as he says 'Al hamdullilah.'

3.30 am  The temperature is 22 degrees. In ten minutes the call will come from the mosques, announcing that the fast has commenced again. Tomorrow promises to be hotter. It will be the same again. Fasting, sleeping, eating. Only with one less Mars Bar.


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Proselytising Puts Moroccan Travellers at Risk

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The relationships between Christians and Muslims in Morocco is usually harmonious. However, tensions do rise from time to time when outside groups attempt to convert local Muslims. Many evangelist groups have learned that such activities are difficult inside Morocco, so they have introduced a new way of getting Arabic versions of the Bible into Morocco - by giving them as gifts to unwary Moroccan travellers coming from Spain

According to the 2004 International Religious Freedom report, the Moroccan Constitution provides for freedom of religion, and while the Government generally respects this right in practice, there are some restrictions. For example, proselytising is forbidden in Morocco with the result that any attempt to induce a Muslim to convert is illegal.

According to Article 220 of the Moroccan Penal Code, any attempt to stop one or more persons from the exercise of their religious beliefs or from attendance at religious services is unlawful and may be punished by 3-6 months' imprisonment and a fine of $10 to $50 (115 to 575 dirhams). Over the last few years there appears to have been a push by some groups to break Moroccan law and engage in illegal proselytising activities. In some cases untrained missionaries have been targeting Morocco.

The catholic and protestant churches have been operating in Morocco for more than a century, and according to the religious authorities "have learned over the years to live in harmony with the country and its people." The churches in Morocco focus on promoting dialogue between Christians and Muslims, which "by definition, rules out proselytising activities."

According to church spokesmen, "this dialogue has an intellectual and theological dimension and copes with the social and cultural realms. Thus, Christians are engaged in various activities alongside Muslims, share the same values and goals and are not afraid of showing their differences. Today, we believe in the richness of interaction between religions which have everything to gain from better knowing and understanding one another. The Catholic and the Evangelical Churches in Morocco believe that dialogue is part of their responsibility.

According to the latest reports, fundamentalist Christians have adopted a new tactic which to avoid prosecution for illegally attempting to convert Muslims. The tactic involves approaching Moroccan travellers in Spain and convincing them to smuggle Christian bibles, DVDs and books into Morocco. They appear to have little understanding of the problems they could potentially cause for Moroccans bringing religious material into Morocco.

One group involved has been identified as being from the Silver Hills Community Church in Carson City and another from the Covenant Presbyterian Church in Reno.

According to one anti-Muslim website, the church members joined with an "Operation Transit Team" at the port of Algeciras to pass out packets containing Bibles, Christian DVDs and Christian books to Muslims passing through the port on their way to Morocco. These materials were provided in Arabic and French by a team of international mission agencies.


A young Carson student offering a traveller a bible in Arabic

Many of those involved appear to be young and it is doubtful that they have any understanding of the implications of what they are doing and the impact on those they give "gifts" to.

According to the website, "Algeciras is the southern port of Spain, where North Africans travel back to Africa from European countries where they have been working all year for their summer holiday. Muslims from France, Belgium, Italy, Germany and Spain travel every year on ferries across the Strait of Gibraltar back to their homes in North Africa. In the port of Algeciras, the Operation Transit Teams are free to approach people and offer them these materials freely. Due to culture, gifts are freely given and received, therefore, many will accept these materials and take them back to North Africa. During the time in Algeciras, the Carson City/Reno team handed out 1,300 packets to Muslims traveling to North Africa. They worked in two-hour shifts on the port while other team members prayed together for receptivity. During the eight days, the team met Muslims from Morocco, Algeria, Mauritania, Senegal and Mali".

It is understood that the Moroccan Customs authorities are aware of the "gifts".

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Volubilis International Festival ~ A gem of an event, small but perfectly formed

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The Volubilis International Festival, Meknes July 3-8, seems to take place under the radar of the ‘cultural tourism’ circuit. Virtually no foreign visitors were in evidence at this 14th edition. Gabe Monson, from The View from Fez,  felt privileged to be there and offers her take on the highlights.

Local audiences embraced Volubilis Festival’s six nights of Moroccan and world music, with good reason. The program was free, diverse and well chosen. Local acts ranged from sing-along favourites and established genres to rising ‘New Scene’ groups. Stage, sound and lighting production was excellent. Security was friendly, the atmosphere relaxed in both the riverside Jardin Lahboul, and the bustling Place Lahdim, by the landmark Bab Mansour

International theatrical troupes included Turkish Folklor Kuruma and the gloriously costumed acrobatic Peking Opera of Heilongjiang, touring Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia.

Peking Opera of Heilongjiang

As well as music from Guadelope, Peru, Spain, Poland and France, Africa was well represented. Paille (Martinique) provided contemporary dancehall sounds, while Ivory Coast group N’GOHA OBV opened their set at the level where most groups aim to climax. If Place Lahdim had a roof, they surely would have lifted it off.

During their set I wondered for a moment how the long established Moroccan folkloric group Izenzaren Iggout, waiting in the wings, were feeling, listening to the riotous act they were to follow.

However, Moroccans love their own, and within a few bars, the audience was as enthusiastic for their poetic Amazigh songs as they had been the night before for Cheb Kader’s urban Rai, his challenging lyrics laced with funky guitar riffs and delicious fiddle.

The program became more focused on Moroccan music towards the end of the week, spiced with exuberant Spanish flamenco and fusion jazz.

Maria Angeles Gabaldon

Indeed, the Festival, organised by the Ministry of Culture in partnership with the region Meknès-Tafilalet, provided a great showcase of Moroccan music across the regions and generations. It was clear from the audience responses that traditional forms continue their relevance and appeal, as superb musicians play creatively with lyrics and diverse instrumentation.

Jil el Maana combined Southern Gnawa rhythms with melhoun poetic quatrains. New York based SSAHHA, led by Moroccan born jazz pianist Amino Belyamani, featured perhaps the most unusual instrumental combination of the Festival, or maybe any festival. A traditional Gnawa guimbri sat alongside a grand piano, tuned to the quarter tones needed to mesh with an (electric) oud.

Moroccan born jazz pianist Amino Belyamani

Saturday night saw rising ‘New Style’ groups in a packed Place Lahdim. Amazigh language band Fuzz Anaruz (Fusion Hope) from Khemisset supported Heat Spirit from El Jadida. These articulate young performers shone a light on contemporary issues with clearly written songs going directly to the experience of their young audience.

The crowd roared along with Heat Spirit’s current single Boustane Jamil. As lead singer Soukaina FAHSI explained; ‘This song is about the difference between the version of the world we are told in school- get good marks, and everything will be OK -and the reality of life; that it is such a struggle.’

Soukaina is a girl to watch in the future, her confidence and stage presence way outshining the limited opportunities that these young groups get to perform live. Indeed, these young bands and musicians deserve a separate article, which will follow on The View From Fes shortly.

Soukaina is a girl to watch

On the last night, Fatima Zahraa Laaroussi’s set of well known, operatically ornamented love songs was delivered with a sense of generous joy. She sang like the cat who’d got the cream. And truly any singer who can front a capacity audience and the Meknes Orchestra, (including five male backing singers, five percussionists and a four piece string section) so warmly, while looking so good in a little black caftan, and rousing whole areas of youth to football-style chanting, deserves to enjoy herself.

Fatima Zahraa Laaroussi

But the real finale was yet to come.

A little confused by the program booklet (which runs backwards in non-English) thought the night was over, the orchestra just a little slow to leave, when suddenly the lights strobed, the audience went berserk and pop superstar Saad Lamjarred bounded onto the stage.

A cross between Bruce Springsteen and a Jet from West Side Story, this man has the action. Oh yeah, the boy can play. The son of famous performer parents, with the energy of a soccer player and the smile of a corsair, charisma pours from his pores.

pop superstar Saad Lamjarred

He strutted, leaped, joked and teased the crowd, encouraging people to come forward, even onstage. He kissed babies and young men, danced with ladies and reassured the sudden line of burly security; It’s OK, it’s OK. He was the Boss.

Afaf Razouki, summed up the Volubilis festival in Le Matin with: ‘This opening on the world confirms the will of the organisers to reinforce the values of exchange, tolerance and friendliness, while celebrating the art of living in ancestral and warm-hearted Morocco.’

I would sum it up by quoting Saad Lamjarred’s opening stage line: ‘I’m so glad to be here’.

So was I. Now, you know about this little gem of a Festival too. Next year, be there. I will.

Text and photographs: Gabe Monson

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The Ramadan Diary ~ Working and Fasting in the Heat

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Fasting during Ramadan is something most Moroccans look forward to and before Ramadan arrives there is a palpable sense of excitement. and the first night of Ramadan is something of a party.  On the other hand, there are many Moroccans who leave the country during Ramadan in order to spend their time with relatives in the cooler climes of Europe. Not everyone has that option and and overwhelming majority find Ramadan a time to renew their faith and spend more time with their families. Yet Ramadan is not without its problems. There are health and financial issues that every family has to face.


The health benefits of fasting are unclear and the failure to drink water during periods of extreme heat is   a recognised and serious problem, especially for those doing manual labour during the day. As The View from Fez reported last Ramadan, The longer days at this time of year have the added burden of intense heat and biggest health problem for most people is not being able to drink water. "People become dehydrated and cannot concentrate,' explains Fez shopkeeper Omar." Late afternoon is not a good time to take a taxi," he says with a wry smile then whispers, "of course many people do drink a little water, but not in public."

That Ramadan is falling in the heat of summer is causing problems not just in Morocco, but around the Muslim world. For some the heat means they will have to break their fast, while others will simply try to tough it out. "There's no choice but to bear the heat," says Jalal Qandil, 38, a sun-browned, sweating construction worker in Gaza City and father of five school-age children. "If I don't work, we won't eat this Ramadan. But God will help us."

Other labourers said they would quietly break their fast, trusting that God understands.

"Sometimes it's so hot, that we can't touch the metal poles on the scaffolding without gloves," said Munir, a 26-year-old Pakistani labourer in Dubai. "You cannot work in these conditions without water. I am religious and respect Ramadan, but it also is not intended to make you sick or put you in danger."

Religious authorities in the United Arab Emirates allow labourers to break their fast if the temperature exceeds 50 Celsius (122 Fahrenheit). Other Muslim scholars say, regardless of the temperature, labourers can break their fast if they feel weak or thirsty. They have to make up the days later, said Sheik Mohammed Ali, an Iraqi Shiite cleric. "They should have the little food and drink that can make them able to work," he said.

While the debate about dehydration will doubtless continue, there is little disagreement that the spiritual side of fasting is almost universally positive.

An Anglican (Church of England) priest visiting Morocco during Ramadan told The View from Fez that he found the Moroccan attitude towards fasting "inspiring". He pointed out that Christians fast during Lent, but, as he put it, "Giving up oysters and chocolate for Lent is something of a fad". He's not wrong.

There is a festive side to the holy month, but for most Moroccan families the daily grind of work goes on. The purchasing of special food, the price rises in the souks, and the pressure to buy new clothes, all add to cost and for people with few financial resources Ramadan can be a stressful time.

As Youssef Sourgo noted in Morocco World News last week, there is a huge amount of work behind the scenes and most of it done by women.

It’s eight sharp in the morning, and she’s already woken up. An avalanche of unclean dishes from last night’s nocturnal meal is awaiting her in the kitchen sink. Will she manage to finish washing the dishes in time to move on to taking care of the rest of the house? Oh, and she has a couple kids to watch after while simultaneously performing her home tasks.

She’s already exhausted while she still haven’t reached the cooking part. The fasting makes it even more challenging for her. It’s 19:00. All is clean, neat, and ready by the time the other members of the family abruptly show up to break their fast around the evening table. She eventually made it, isn’t that a miracle? - Youssef Sourgo

First Time Fasting

If you are a non-Muslim, then fasting can seem strange. So, what is it like to fast for the first time? In Rabat, Erin Geneva decided to see what fasting felt like and so last weekend she fasted for a full day. As she says, she decided to fast on a weekend as she was unsure of her ability to fast and work.


As a foreigner here in Morocco during Ramadan, it has been intriguing to me to observe Moroccan Muslims observing their fast. I decided that I should attempt, at least for one day to experience what most Moroccans are experiencing all around me. So, I decided to fast, I figured it couldn’t be that hard.

I purposely chose to fast a day on the weekend, so I wouldn’t have anything strenuous to do and so it wouldn’t be too difficult. I’m not sure I could get through a day of work while fasting, especially on my first attempt.

I remember feeling particularly grateful that I have never taken up the habit of smoking, and I can certainly sympathize with those I have noticed sneaking off into alleyways to get their fix since Ramadan began. I also have a new understanding for the crankiness I have noticed among people here during the day, that was absent prior to the onset of Ramadan.

Now although I do not have a chemical dependency as strong as the one most smokers have to their nicotine, I do have one vice. Despite several attempts over the past decade, I have never been able to shake my commitment to caffeine. Starting my day with a large coffee, and having a few cups of tea throughout the day keeps me sane. So it is difficult to know if the headache and shakes I felt all day long can be attributed to caffeine withdrawal, hunger, dehydration or a combination of all. Regardless, I can say that throughout the entire day, I felt truly awful. And I certainly gained some new respect for the people who are going through this for an entire month! Especially those who are continuing full time work or study.

My undergraduate studies were when I first learned about Ramadan. Yesterday, I found myself thinking about the dutiful Muslim students at home in Canada who observed the fast-even during exam periods, and even when most people around them in class were snacking and drinking hot beverages, which undoubtedly would have filled their nostrils. I can’t imagine how difficult this must be. Although my day of fasting was difficult, it was made easier by the fact that I am in a place where nearly everybody around me is also fasting. I think this would be far more difficult if I was in the minority.

Some Muslims have expressed to me that there are health benefits to fasting, which they feel about halfway through the month of Ramadan. However from a purely physical perspective, there is nobody who will ever convince me that dehydration is good for you. That being said, I can certainly see the health benefits of fasting in a more holistic sense, in terms of spiritual, emotional, psychological and long-term health.

When it comes to food consumption, I will never be known as a shining example of self-control. Those who know me well, have often marveled at my seemingly miraculous fortune to have evaded weight problems. So in terms of long-term health, I can certainly see how developing self-discipline when it comes to food consumption could be of great benefit. In terms of psychological, and emotional health I can also see how mastering one’s impulses and improving self-control could be an accomplishment, and also make a person emotionally and mentally stronger.

Another reason for fasting during Ramadan, is to show solidarity with the poor. With those for whom the deprivation of food and water is a daily part of life. This is certainly a beautiful tradition, and sawm along with zakat, are two things I find beautiful about the Muslim religion.

Although I have new respect for the practice of fasting- one day was enough for me. I wish all Muslims good luck in what will surely be a challenging few more weeks of the Ramadan fast.

Erin's story first appeared in Morocco World News and is published with permission 

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Morocco's Islamists in Need of New Friends

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Ramadan is proving a worrying time for Morocco's ruling Islamists who find themselves isolated after a key ally quits. Ahram-on-line reports that the political deadlock has prompted fears of government paralysis at a time when Morocco is under pressure to implement much-needed social reforms

Morocco's Premier and head of the Justice and Development Party Abdelilah Benkirane

Morocco's ruling Islamists are in need of a new ally after their main coalition partners made good on their threat to quit the government, raising the possiblity of early elections.

The Party of Justice and Development (PJD) shot to power for the first time after triumphing in parliamentary polls held in 2011 as one of the democratic measures offered by the monarchy in response to Arab Spring protests sweeping Morocco.

But key coalition partner, the nationalist Istiqlal Party, which held several ministerial portfolios including education and the economy, said in May that it planned to resign over the PJD's failure to shore up the economy and solve pressing social problems.

It finally did so after the return from a private holiday in France of King Mohammed IV, who had urged the party to go back on its decision.

On Tuesday, five out of six Istiqlal ministers submitted their resignations barring education minister Mohamed El-Ouafa who held on his portfolio forcing the party to suspend him, party spokesman Adil Benhamza told AFP.

To hold on to the reins of power, as other Islamist parties in the region have struggled to do, the PJD is now faced with two choices, according to political analyst Mohamed Darif.

A cabinet reshuffle would be the most obvious short-term solution but the alternative is to call fresh elections, "in order to secure a new majority in the polls," Darif told AFP.

The PJD's leadership will meet on Saturday to decide its next step, but Darif says the likeliest scenario is a reshuffle, "which means a new coalition with one or two new parties" to fill the 60 seats held by Istiqlal in Morocco's House of Representatives.

Local press reports indicate that talks have already begun with the National Rally of Independents, which has 52 seats in parliament.

But such an alliance could turn out to be a mismatch, Darif argues.

"The RNI is a party that voted against the government programme drawn up by the Islamists. Going along with it now would go down badly" with its supporters, he says.

If the RNI were to join the Islamists, the government programme adopted in January 2012 would have to pass again through parliament.

But the ruling coalition's prospects couldn't get much worse than they have been in recent months, when the rivalry between Istiqlal's leader Hamid Chabat and Islamist Prime Minister Abdelilah Benkirane frequently spilled into the open.

When it announced its decision to pull out of the coalition, Chabat's party, which led the previous ruling alliance, accused the Islamists of inaction and of monopolising decisions.

The political deadlock has prompted fears of government paralysis at a time when Morocco is under pressure to implement much-needed social reforms, notably on costly subsidies, and to fix its ailing public finances.

The country last year faced a budget deficit of more than seven percent of GDP.

Some within the PJD appear to favour the option of new elections.

"It would clear up the situation completely and it is also the wish of some of our party leaders," Abdelaziz Aftati, a lawmaker from the Islamist party told AFP.

The PJD's popularity is undeniable, with a recent opinion poll showing Benkirane still having widespread support among the electorate.


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Ramadan Diary ~ The Longest Thirty Minutes

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Today The View from Fez continues its exploration of Ramadan (thanks to Wikileaks) with another leaked excerpt from the Ramadan Diary*. 

*Warning: this story contains images of food


All the food is on display. I check my watch. It us 7 pm. People wander past with shopping bags full of fruit juice, baguettes and plastic containers with harira.

Untouched in front of me is a chilled bottle of mineral water, the condensation on its surface sparkles alluringly.

At the food stalls the people are lining up. Nobody is eating, but simply looking at the food. They have already peeled their hard boiled eggs. Glasses of fresh orange juice or avocado smoothies have been poured. There is smoke and the smell of a charcoal fire and chicken being grilled, coming from the restaurant beside me.

A wandering vendor offers dates stuffed with walnuts.  I buy eight of them.

The huge watermelons are split and cut in glistening segments.


People check their watches. Men in white hurry down the street on their way to the mosque. It is 7.20 pm and the temperature has dropped down to 32 degrees Celsius.

In the restaurant next to where I am sitting are five French tourists. They are eating kefta, salads and drinking Coke. Although people glance at them, there is no animosity towards them. They are foreigners, they don't observe Ramadan and that is their business. But, when one of the women lights a cigarette, the smell of it pervades the street and the Moroccan men who have not had a smoke for sixteen hours don't smile.

From the hamam behind me the last of the women hurry out and make their way home ready for Iftar (Ramadan breakfast).

On the street in front of me a man stops, checks his watch, and touching his hand to his heart, mouths the words, "Ten minutes"

At another table a young man slowly unwraps his small plastic bags of food. He looks so calm and serene. He has been sitting there for almost forty minutes and not once have I seen him check his watch. Then I see he doesn't have one.

At the table next to me are Jerome and Suzette. They tell me they are from Amsterdam and that this is their first time in Morocco.  They have their food in front of them and although they are not fasting, they are refraining from eating until the official end of the day's fast.  I admire their sensitivity towards the locals.

The sound of the cannon booms out across the Medina followed by the call to prayer. It is 7.36 pm and it is time for breakfast.

Back when Istanbul was still called Constantinople, Italian writer Edmondo de Amicus described the fast-breaking in Istanbul:
Now nothing can be seen but a tiny point of fire: a thousand hunks of bread are held close to a thousand mouths, and then the fiery eye drops out of sight, the cannons thunder, and on the instant thirty-two thousand teeth tear a thousand huge mouthfuls from a thousand loaves! But why say a thousand, when in every house and cafe and restaurant a similar scene is being enacted at precisely the same moment, and for a short time the Turkish city is nothing but a huge monster whose hundred thousand jaws are all tearing and devouring at once?
Things are a little different in Fez. Thousands of mouths whispering "Bismillah" as hands reaching for thousands of dates and glasses of milk. It is a somewhat more gentle scene.


My friend, Hamid, plonks himself down into the chair next to me, helps himself to a slice of watermelon and then, with a grin on his face, lights a cigarette. "Why is it," he asks, "that the last hour before the fast begins each morning goes so fast and yet the thirty minutes before F'touh (Iftar), seem so long?"

Normally I would have had an answer, but at that moment all I really wanted to do was eat. "Bismillah," I say and offer him one of the stuffed dates.

Then, suddenly the streets are empty and silent. The crowds have vanished. Some have gone into their homes, others are squatting on the curb beside makeshift tables. Eating is now the only activity. It is a serious business and talking is not important. Now, nobody is checking their watch.

Other excerpts from The Ramadan Diary:
Once Upon a Time in Ramadan
The Singing Alarm Clock
Working and Fasting in the Heat

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The Fez Collection of Moroccan Lithographic Books Finds a Home - in America

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The University of Pennsylvania Libraries have announced the purchase of a collection of lithographic books printed in Fez during the latter half of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th centuries. The collection also includes Arabic manuscripts from Morocco that date from the 17th century to the early 20th century and moveable type style books printed in Morocco under the French Protectorate.

The collection of 108 titles in 136 volumes was formerly the property of a leading scholar of the history of Moroccan printing, Fawzi Abdulrazak. The libraries did not disclose the purchase price.


Title page of the Kitab Shamail al-Mustafa by Abu Isa al-Tirmidhi

Back in 1865 Abu Isa al-Tirmidhi must have been a happy author. His book, Kitab Shamail al-Mustafa, was printed. It was a first for Abu Isa and for printing in Fez. His book was the first lithographic book ever printed printed in the city. While there are many rare books held in libraries in Morocco, Kitab Shamail al-Mustafa will remain in the USA

While the purchase gives Penn Libraries the distinction of owning an exceedingly rare and invaluable resource, and one that few other libraries can match, it is sad that the collection could not have come home to Morocco. But, as Dr Adulrazak points out, the books will be in good hands.

“I am very glad to have my collection at Penn Libraries. It is in great hands. I know that it will be carefully preserved, and will be freely available for use by scholars. This is very important to me,” said Dr. Abdulrazak.

The bulk of the collection dates from 1865 to 1936, covering most of the span of Moroccan lithographic printing from its beginning in the city of Fez to its end during the French Protectorate. It is important to note that five of the works included in the collection are the very first lithographic books produced in Fez. In initiating their printing industry, the Moroccans chose the lithographic method over moveable type, because they felt it preserved a link to their country’s rich heritage of manuscript production. As is common in Moroccan manuscripts, five different types of Arabic script were used in making the lithographs, and Penn Libraries’ newly acquired collection reflects this.

Initially, the royal court was the driving force in the printing of the new lithographic books, but soon private firms appeared. The collection includes works made by all of the various printers in Fez. In general, the Moroccan intelligentsia felt that printing would preserve and invigorate their scholarship in the face of French and Spanish challenges by making books, and the knowledge they contained more widely available. The Penn Libraries’ collection includes works by over 101 scholars and editors whose work represents the pinnacle of Muslim scholarship in North Africa during the 19th and the beginning of the 20th centuries. Islamic law and mysticism are the most common subjects; other subjects include Islamic doctrine, religious life, philosophy, Arabic grammar, and rhetoric.

The lithographs were much sought after at the time of their issue due to their first rate materials and printing, their exceptional scholarly worth, and the meticulous editing done to the texts. Their value has increased immeasurably today. They are superb examples of the printer’s art in the Islamic lands, and of the intellectual achievements of Moroccan scholars of the time.

“The Fez Lithograph Collection will offer Penn scholars unparalleled opportunities for study in the fields of the material history of printing in Morocco and the Islamic world as a whole, and of the intellectual history of Morocco during a crucial period in its history,” said David Giovacchini, Middle East Studies Librarian at Penn Libraries.

In addition to the lithographs, the collection includes a number of Arabic manuscripts from Morocco. There are 41 titles in 23 separate items on diverse subjects, ranging in date from the 17th century to the early 20th. In addition, there are also a number of moveable type style books, printed in Morocco under the French Protectorate.

The Fez Lithographs Collection is currently being processed in the Middle East section of the Van Pelt Library, one of fifteen separate libraries at the University of Pennsylvania that serve the humanities, social and physical sciences. After processing, the collection will be permanently housed in the Rare Book and Manuscript Library at Van Pelt. In the fall, Penn Libraries and the Middle East Center at Penn are planning to bring Dr. Abdulrazak to campus to speak about the collection and the history of printing in Morocco.

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Ramadan Diary ~ Nine Days into the Fast and the talk turns to Taxis and Television

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Nine days into the month of Ramadan and not everyone is happy. Of course there are the usual flare-ups with hungry, thirsty people suffering mood swings in the heat. But that's not the main grumble. Ask anyone and they will tell you that Ramadan is wonderful and they are happy to be fasting and contemplating their faith. What they are not so happy about are television and taxis - as we discover in this episode of the leaked "Ramadan Diary"

Lets start with the taxis. The effects of fasting and particularly lack of water on a human being is the reason that airline pilots are forbidden to fast during Ramadan. A lapse of concentration in the street is one thing, but a lapse at the controls of an airbus could have major consequences. Sadly the same logic that bans airline pilots from fasting does not apply to people driving cars.



For the record, after not seeing a traffic accident for several weeks; two days into Ramadan a driver of a private car and a taxi had a minor bingle on a main road in Fez. A day later and I had witnessed three more accidents.

As Hamid, a taxi driver for the last three years, told me, "People don't concentrate as hard when they are fasting." At this point he is driving fifteen kilometres over the speed limit on a main city street. As we swerve to avoid a pedestrian who has decided that crossing against the lights is a good idea, he shakes his head. "Totally crazy! You get my point?" I get it and at the same time wonder if I would have been better off as a pedestrian myself.

"And the passengers?" Hamid shakes his head again. "They argue about the fare, they change their mind about where they want to go and they even criticise my driving." I grip the side of the seat as we take a roundabout at full speed and just make it through some lights that are blinking orange.. I say nothing. "And they complain about everything."
"Like?" I venture.
"Like the fact this year Ramadan coincided with the holidays and so people all think they have made the wrong decision. Do you go on holiday while you're fasting? Or do you fast and wait until Ramadan is over? And the lucky ones have escaped to France where nobody cares about fasting and feasting."
"And you?"
He looks at me as if shocked. "Me? You think I can afford a holiday?"

As the taxi pulls into the supermarket, the mood is on the lower end of convivial. Getting out of the taxi is made more difficult by the fact that five middle-aged Moroccan women, laden with shopping bags, have decided that this taxi is theirs. The driver shouts that he can only take three people and then asks them politely if they can stop fighting long enough to let me out of the cab. I finally make it to the pavement and walk away quickly while the women discuss the fact that four into three is not a viable proposition.

The plus side of these minor explosions of human temperament is that they are like fire-crackers rather than volcanos. A heated argument erupts and then ends just as quickly. Few have the energy to prolong a conflict.

Next to a more major issue. Television. Last Ramadan there was a national TV survey which showed that despite the time and money put into providing Moroccan programmes for Ramadan, more than 50.5% of Moroccan viewers watched foreign channels, with only 36.7% watching 2M, 8% Al Aoula and 3.9% Al Maghribia. And the reason? The programmes are boring and the jokes unfunny.

Moroccan TV show Bnat Lalla Mennana is an exception and the audience response is positive

"Most Moroccan series broadcast by the national television channels are weak and underestimate the intelligence of the Moroccan people," 22-year-old student Samira Semmar said.

Moroccans waited a whole year, hoping to savour Moroccan artistry for the July 10th start of Ramadan, but the quality comes nowhere near the mark, said public sector worker Larbi Mellakhi. "Why do producers make comedy programmes when experience shows that humour is not Moroccan artists' strongest suit?"

"The jokes are old and unfunny," he added. "It's a great disappointment to us."

"Comedy is a difficult genre, requiring lots of time and research," art critic Salah Chennoufi said. "Most of the programmes are characterised by amateurism, and it is clear that the failure lies in the scripts."

It is time to give young artists an opportunity to bring new ideas, he added, noting that many young actors have come out well in talent search programmes.

Given viewer's disappointment, many have turned to Arab satellite channels, with their unrivalled range of Ramadan television programming.

"Shows on the foreign channels are worlds away from those on the domestic channels," 32-year-old Siham Bahri said. "From hidden camera shows to sitcoms to made-for-TV films, the quality fluctuates. There are very few home-made programmes shown during Ramadan which are good enough."

The simple lesson to learn from all of this is: if you want, excitement, distraction humour and road thrills...don't expect to get it from television - instead, take a taxi at around five in the afternoon. You don't need a specific destination. After all it's the travelling that's the buzz.

See all the Ramadan Diary excerpts - RAMADAN DIARY

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Ramadan Diary ~ Just When You Thought It Couldn't Get More Crazy...

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The tenth* day of Ramadan  was a day of great drama, high speed car rides in an attempt to find drugs, and a near death experience.  Join us once again as we bring you (thanks to Wikileaks) another leaked excerpt from the highly classified Ramadan Diary
*Maybe the eleventh? Things kind of blur after a few days fasting 


It had started well, with cooler weather and everyone I ran into being in a happy mood. This was good, because it is just too easy to get a little grumpy when fasting. 

Then everything changed. A friend, Rachida, was cleaning a courtyard fountain when she was stung twice by a yellow paper wasp. These things are no joke. Forget about bee stings and ant bites - this little bugger packs a powerful dose of toxins that are its defence mechanism against animals and people cleaning fountains.

The culprit at the scene of the incident

At first it seemed just mildly painful, but within minutes Rachida's hand had swollen up and a rash of hives had started to cover her entire body. Then, to make things worse, her tongue went numb, curled at a strange angle and started to swell alarmingly. She began to feel nauseous and was obviously extremely distressed.

While she hurried off to the local pharmacy, I went to an ATM to get cash for medicine. When I returned to the pharmacy I found it was closed and Rachida had vanished. Then nothing. No phone contact, no text message - nothing for an hour and a half.

During that time I cheered myself up by reading up on anaphylactic shock. It was not reassuring, particularly the part about people dying within ten minutes or so.

It starts as a sting and ends up like something from a horror movie

Meanwhile Rachida had jumped into a taxi and headed to one of the community hospitals. It was closed for the holidays or Ramadan or simply because it was Saturday.

Rachida caught a cab and raced home to get help, but, as she got out of the taxi she saw a friend who was a doctor. He took one look at her and then bundled her into his office and gave her two injections. "Take this," he said and handed her a prescription.  "You have anaphylactic shock. Find a pharmacy fast and forget about Ramadan. You must eat something and then take the medicine." He refused to accept any money for the injections that probably saved her life.

Rachida's brother joined her and, finding a taxi, they scoured Fez for a pharmacy that was open. Thankfully, the taxi driver realised how serious the situation was and drove at high speed, without stopping at traffic lights. Finally found a pharmacy open at Oued Fez. The taxi driver also refused to take any money.

Thankfully the story ended well, and what was so wonderful was the way everyone assisted without wanting money. The Ramadan spirit was alive and well, and so was Rachida. *

*Note to myself: buy an epi-pen


An epinephrine autoinjector is a medical device used to deliver a measured dose (or doses) of epinephrine (also known as adrenaline) using autoinjector technology, most frequently for the treatment of acute allergic reactions to avoid or treat the onset of anaphylactic shock. Trade names for this device include EpiPen, Twinject, Adrenaclick, Anapen, Jext, Allerject, and Auvi-Q. The EpiPen was originally derived from the ComboPen, a product developed for the military for treating exposure to nerve agents.

As we have previously noted, Ramadan is not only about fasting, prayer and purification and surviving wasp stings, it is also about television. And while people are grumbling about the local programmes being about as entertaining as watching grass grow, foreign television has suddenly erupted as a hot issue.

"The way they show Moroccan women, is an insult," fumes Mustapha. 'It used to be just those Gulf Arabs who portrayed our women like that, now it is the Saudi television."

We were waiting for the canon to fire to mark the end of the day's fast. We both check our watches and see that we have time to discuss it. "What's the problem?" I ask and add the fact that I don't watch television.

Mustapha shook his head. "Hsuma. Shame... just hsuma."
"The image of the Moroccan woman has been subject to one more popular media distortion. A soap opera, exclusively designed for broadcast in Ramadan in Saudi Arabia, entitled “Kalam A’nass” (people’s talk), joined the list of Gulf countries’ TV products that distort the image of Moroccan women." - Youssef Sourgo Morocco World News
According to critics, it was episode #6 of Kalam A’nass that truly got up people's noses. The episode was titled Al Khirfan (the sheep) and its depiction of Moroccan women was seen by most as downright shameful. The episode shows an ambitious young Saudi woman who sets up a call-centre business and hires Moroccan girls to work in it.

The Moroccan girls’ task in this episode was duping Saudi young men by seducing them and selling them illusory promises of love via phone calls in exchange for money - a practice known as “love trading.” Also in the same episode, a Moroccan woman is depicted as leading other girls within the call centre in their sordid endeavours, by instructing them on how to dupe “the sheep.”

Mustapha claims that Moroccan TV viewers are so incensed they have taken the drastic step of actually going back to watching the local 2M channel.  That'll teach those Saudis a lesson.

And while on the subject of gripes, our fellow diarist from Morocco World News, Erin MacDonald, has had a word or two to say about "obnoxious" foreign tourists....

I don’t believe that it’s necessary to become an expert on a different country before you decide to pay a visit. Actually, having a few surprises after you arrive, and learning new things about a country during your visit is what makes up half the fun of traveling. And indeed some of the mistakes you make will likely be a source of light hearted amusement for locals.

But, it is certainly necessary to learn a few basic things about the country that you plan to visit. You can likely do this by a quick google search and skimming through Wikipedia and a few other articles you will undoubtedly come across. It is also always prudent to consult your nation’s travel advisory.

And doing all of this should take you….a whopping 15-20 minutes. Maybe a half hour. Let’s face it, you can probably do that on your Iphone while waiting at the passport office or even while waiting to board your plane. Basically, I don’t think there’s any excuse for not making sure you know the basic facts about the country you are planning to visit. And even this small effort, will likely prevent you from making any disastrous mistakes once you arrive.

However, while in every country I have visited- I have seen tourists do some appalling things, which were not only rude but completely disrespectful of the country which tolerated their presence. I would like to assume that this is a result of ignorance, and not a total disregard for the culture they are visiting. I’m not totally sure. All I can say is that at times tourists can be obnoxious and disrespectful of their host country. As a foreigner in Morocco, and as somebody who loves traveling and plans to do much more of it in the future, this annoys me.



A few afternoons ago, I saw what was actually the worst example of obnoxious tourist’s behaviour that I have ever seen. A woman who I will assume is North American by her appearance (perhaps incorrectly) came out of a McDonald’s wearing clothes that would be considered tastelessly revealing even by North American standards and proceeded to walk down the street stuffing her face with ice cream.

Perhaps she was unaware it is Ramadan…although I think this is highly unlikely. This is what drove me stop walking and stare open mouthed at this woman as she walked by me. I was not the only person in the vicinity to do this.

As a Canadian, but also a North American (by North American here I mean Canada and the US) in Morocco, I have two reactions to this incident, and others like it. The first, is that I am completely humiliated by this behaviour by someone who shares my continent of origin and undoubtedly had access to the information that would inform her of her wrongdoings. This embarrasses me because there will certainly be people who observe this woman’s behaviour and view it as representative of all North Americans.

My second reaction to this is that I would like to sincerely apologise for the behaviour of many North Americans abroad who have given all of us a bad name. The vast majority of us enjoy access to education and internet. Those few unfortunate Canadians and Americans who do not have access to these things, are also without the means to travel, so they are not the ones making fools of themselves while abroad.

See all the Ramadan Diary excerpts - RAMADAN DIARY

Thanks to Morocco World News for Erin's observations on tourists during Ramadan. Erin MacDonald, is a Canadian MA candidate. She grew up in Halifax Nova Scotia where she earned an Honours degree in Religious Studies from St. Mary’s University. She is now earning an MA in Dispute Resolution from the University of Victoria, British Columbia. She is currently fulfilling the internship requirement of her MA degree, working at La Voix de la Femme Amazighe in Rabat Morocco.

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More and More French Muslims Opt for Burial in France

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In a fascinating BBC article, Hugh Schofield explores why so many French Muslims choose burial abroad rather than having their bodies returned to their country of origin. Here is an edited extract

The old cemetery in Fez

From working-class neighbourhoods of French towns and cities to the villages of Algeria and Morocco, a strange kind of reverse migration is under way - of the dead. Every year thousands of bodies are being repatriated from France to the Maghreb, as Muslim families return their loved ones to the soil of their original home. It is a costly and complicated business, involving flights, consular administrators and specialist funeral providers. It also prompts the question: why not get buried in France?

After all, France is the country where these families are now destined to live. Would it not be a sign of successful integration if France were also where they chose to rest when they died?

The answer to that question has to do with the complexities of national identity in a world of mass migration. But also with France's own obsession with secular "republican" values, and its reluctance to give ground - literally - on matters of faith.

At the el-Ouadjib (Duty, in Arabic) funeral parlour in Lille in northern France, Abdallah Hadid receives three or four calls a day from families that have just had a death.

Abdallah Hadid in front of his funeral parlour in Lille

Hadid says, "While the bodies are prayed over and put in the shroud, our administrative team has to rush to get all the documents: from the city hall, from the police, from the consulates. Then we get the plane tickets for the family, and pay for the coffin to go in the hold. People don't realise it, but on most flights from France to the big cities of North Africa there are bodies in the hold - between one and four, depending on the size of the plane.

"Sometimes it is the villagers back in the old country who club together to pay for the removal. It costs about 2,500 euros (£2,150). But more and more families are using insurance companies, paying a little every year to make sure there is the money for a repatriation when they die."

According to Abdallah Hadid, there are two main reasons for sending the bodies of loved ones back to the Maghreb. The first is the pull of the heart - memories, loyalties, a wistful longing for the "old country".

The second is a more practical consideration: the absence of Muslim cemeteries in France.

France calls itself "laic" (secular). For 100 years there has been a strict separation of religion and state. This means that when it comes to burial places, town councils - which administer the country's cemeteries - refuse any special provision for faiths.



For years, French Muslims have been clamouring for designated areas in municipal graveyards - what they call carres confessionnels. In these, Muslim tombs would be directed towards Mecca as required by religion.

But they are blocked by an institutional reluctance on the part of the French authorities.

In practice, more and more Muslim areas are being created in cemeteries, simply because Muslim graves are being put next to each other. But they are tolerated rather than authorised. There is certainly no official policy to create them.

Another problem for Muslims is that space in French cemeteries is normally provisional. Families take out a lease for 30 or 50 years, after which the bodies are put in a common grave.

But this offends many Muslims, who believe bodies in the ground should not be touched. They are reluctant to burden future generations with the cost of renewing the lease of a French grave, so prefer to have their bodies repatriated.

Islamic Funeral Rituals:Islamic law dictates that the funeral or Janazah should take place as soon as possible after death, with the following steps: Bathing the dead body. Placing the corpse in a white cotton or linen cloth shroud. Funeral prayer. Burial of the dead body in a grave (cremation is forbidden). Positioning the body so the head faces Mecca

"This question of carres confessionnels is extremely important to us," says Dalil Boubakeur, who as Rector of the Grand Mosque in Paris is the nearest there is to a leader of French Islam. "There are now six million Muslims in France. They pay taxes, they vote, they take part in local government. Why should they not have a say in how their dead are buried?"

See the full story here: BBC Magazine

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Ramadan Diary ~ It's all about sharing

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Ramadan is a time of sharing and while sharing a meal is the most common form, there is much more to it than that, as today's leaked excerpt from the Ramadan Diary reveals...


A wonderful story of sharing was posted yesterday by a number of friends. Originally written by Souad Mekhennet in Casablanca, it is a story of sharing across religious boundaries - Souad called it "Lifting the Veil"

“Eat the Harira, eat while it’s hot. Don’t be ashamed,” the host insisted, repeating this polite order three more times. Harira is a thick soup of tomatoes, chickpeas, meat and various spices that Moroccan Muslims traditionally eat in the holy month of Ramadan during the time when they break the fast.

Only on this night, the host and cook of this Ramadan meal was a Jewish woman, Suzanne Abittan, who invited Muslim and Jewish neighbours and friends to her home in the city centre of Casablanca, two floors above a synagogue.

Twelve people sat around a table laden with dates, traditional Moroccan pancakes, and sweets: nine women and three men—five of them Muslims and seven Jews.

“For generations Muslims and Jews grew up together here in Morocco, we are brothers and sisters and in some cases shared even the same mother’s milk,” Abittan said in a loud and strong voice, balancing a tray with hard boiled eggs and cut cucumbers as she walked from the kitchen into the living room.

The 59-year-old has worked for many years as a community outreach aide, helping poor families to access education for their children. “Jews and Muslims,” she said, “we don’t make a difference.”

But while the dinner symbolised a tolerance that has existed in this corner of the Maghreb for thousands of years, some Moroccans also worry about the effect of Arab Spring in their neighbouring countries.

“All these countries are turning into chaos, the radicalisation is increasing,” said Souad Fetouak, who works at the ministry of interior and is a friend of Abittan. Together they have created an association for tolerance to bring together Muslims, Jews and Christians in Casablanca.

“I am worried when I see what is happening in the countries around us,” said Fetouak, who is a Muslim. Her dark brown eyes looked over the table full of food and she sipped a cup of coffee—her first after a long day of fasting. “The countries are ending up in big messes.” (full story here)

Sharing a meal is the most common form of Ramadan sharing

Sharing takes many forms during Ramadan. Most of it intentional, but some, unintentional, or should I say "unavoidable"?  Like the music. Celebration is plentiful when the sun goes down here in Fez, and music and poetry are commonly part of the gatherings. You don't have to be invited to listen, as it is everywhere. And it is not only the Dkak beating his drum to announce meal times.

Walking down a local street I can hear the nafar (long trumpets) echoing through the alleyways of the medina, and from a nearby home, voices soaring, singing praises to the Prophet Muhammad.

Ramadan is an especially sacred month and performers tend to reflect and shape this sacred time by giving concerts of samā` wa madīḥ.Samā` wa madīḥ refers to poetry, recited or sung, that focuses on praise and exaltation, usually of the Prophet.

Walking the streets it is obvious that there is a greater level of charity towards the poor. Although there is a special time at the end of Ramadan for giving, it has started early and food and money are being given to the needy. It will increase during Eid al-Fitr which falls on the first day of Shawwal, the month which follows Ramadan in the Islamic calendar. That is a time to give in charity to those in need, and celebrate with family and friends the completion of a month of blessings and joy.

Before the day of Eid, during the last few days of Ramadan, each Muslim family gives a determined amount as a donation to the poor. Although the amount is actually announced on TV, this donation is usually of actual food - rice, barley, dates, rice - to ensure that the needy can have a holiday meal and participate in the celebration. This donation is known as sadaqah al-fitr (charity of fast-breaking).

Of course there is much more to look forward to! Leilat Sabawachrine - literally the night of the 27th day of Ramadan. It is a night especially for children - a time when they dress in their finest clothes. For girls this also means having their hands and feet covered in beautiful henna designs and wearing makeup and jewellery. Once dressed, they take to the streets where many of them were happy to receive gifts of sweets or money.

leilat sabawachrine

Before the 27th there is the prayer night (the 26th) Leilat Alkadr or "The Night of Destiny" which always falls on one of the last 10 days of Ramadan. This event is one of the most blessed of all nights in the Islamic calendar year.

Laylat Alkadr (or al Qadr) is known as the Night of Power as it commemorates the night when, according to Islamic belief, God (Allah) revealed the Qur’an to the prophet Mohammad.

Then, of course there is virtual sharing. Moroccans spend more time on the net during the month of Ramadan than at any other time of the year. Every day millions of fasters, especially young people, share a huge number of publications of all kinds: articles, photos, videos. It is interesting to note that net giants like Google have been providing a content hub dedicated especially to the sacred month.

Warda Al-Jazairia - The Algerian Rose

Even the Google search page features specially selected images such as: Warda Al-Jazairia (Arabic: وردة الجزائرية‎ literally The Algerian Rose). Commonly referred to as just Warda, she was an Algerian-Lebanese singer who was well known for her pan-Arabist songs and music.

There is even a "Ramadan for Geeks" which the Casablanca Social Media Club has organised for the last three years. And, in the spirit of Ramadan, they call themselves "Ftour 2.0" and get together to share expertise and Ftour (Ramadan breakfast) Those who can not come can participate by posting comments on Twitter using the hashtag # Ftour20.

Finally, here's a little story about sharing to put a smile on your face in the hours before you can put food or water in your mouth.

Wanting to have a break from a traditional Ramadan F'tour, the elderly Omar and his equally elderly wife, Fatiha, decided to visit the new Burger King restaurant. After looking at what was on offer, Omar ordered one burger, one cup of chips (French fries) and one bottle of coke.

When the food arrived Omar took the burger and carefully cut it in half, placing one half in front of his wife and taking the other half himself.

He then carefully counted out the chips, dividing them into two piles and neatly placed one pile in front of his wife.

"Bismillah!" said Omar, then took a sip of the coke. His wife then repeated the blessing and, after taking a sip, set the cup down between them.

As he began to eat his few bites of burger, the people around them kept looking over and whispering, “That poor old couple – all they can afford is one meal for the two of them.”

Then as Omar began to eat his chips a young man came to the table. "It's Ramadan, Sidi, please let me buy another meal so you can both eat."

Omar shook his head, “We are just fine, khoya. We are used to sharing everything."

The other people noticed that Omar's wife hadn’t eaten a single bite, but just sat there watching her husband eat and occasionally taking turns sipping the Coke.

Again, the young man came over and begged them to let him buy another meal for them.

This time Omar's wife, Fatiha, said, “No, thank you, we are used to sharing everything.”

As Omar finished and was wiping his face neatly with the napkin, the young man again came over to his wife who had yet to eat a single bite of food and asked “What is it you are waiting for?”

She glanced at Omar and then smiled at the young man. "I'm waiting to share the teeth."

See all the Ramadan Diary excerpts - RAMADAN DIARY

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THE FRANCE-MOROCCO CULTURAL SEASON - NIGHTS OF RAMADAN 2013

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After the success of the 2012 edition, the Morocco-France Cultural Season presents its second consecutive year of evening entertainment during the month of Ramadan, throughout Morocco. 


Ramadan Nights offer a rich and varied program in 8 cities with 150 touring artists, 33 concerts, 92 000 spectators. This year, the Nights will be presented in Agadir, Casablanca, El Jadida, Essaouira, Fes, Kenitra, Marrakech, Meknes, Rabat, Safi, Tangier and Tetouan.

The Ramadan NightsTheywill focus on the musical cultures of the Mediterranean: Algeria, Egypt, Spain, France, Palestine and Tunisia, enriched by the presence of a group from Mongolia.



PROGRAMME:
Les Nuits du Ramadan 2013.

Dans le cadre de la Saison Culturelle France-Maroc

Programme :

MUSÉE BATHA, 22h, ENTREE LIBRE

LUNDI 22 JUILLET
- MAALAM GNAOUI YASSINE BOUDOUAIA
- EMEL MATHLOUTHI

MARDI 23 JUILLET
- MALHOUNE DE FES
- ORCHESTRE NATIONAL DE BARBÈS

SAMEDI 27 JUILLET
- CHOUKRI DIWAN ET LES JILALIATS DE FÈS
- EGYPTIAN PROJECT

SATURDAY, JULY 27
- CHOUKRI DIWAN JILALIATS AND OF FES
- EGYPTIAN PROJECT




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Ramadan Diary ~ A Cup Half Full or Half Empty?

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It is halfway through Ramadan and tonight people are celebrating. In today's excerpt from the Ramadan Diary we discover a random act of kindness and a religious expert who says Muslims should not watch TV series during Ramadan



A random act of kindness

7.36 pm. The canon at the Southern Fort had belched forth its flash of fire and huge bang - al humdullilah - and we had just sat down to break our fast.  The kind folks at Riad Rcif had invited me and the iftar table was laden with food and beverages. The cake had just come out of the oven and, as someone put it, "the smell of it baking had me salivating for the last couple of hours".

"Tomorrow we are halfway through Ramadan," Hicham said. He was about to continue when there was a disturbance outside the door. He went to investigate, while I continued my nightly love affair with a jug of fresh avocado smoothie.

Hicham leads a diminutive Japanese woman into the room.  She looks to be in total shock.  She mumbles something, but it is either in Japanese or she is so incoherent it is unintelligible. Then she repeats it, a little louder. "Can you help me. Help me. I am frightened."

Aicha takes her to a banquette and seats her, while Salim produces a glass of mint tea and a slice of cake, but the woman is trembling so much that she can't hold the glass.

For the next ten minutes Aicha arms herself with a box of Kleenex and sits with her arm around the sobbing woman.

Eventually we piece together the story. She is a solo traveller on her way around Morocco. Having visited Marrakech, Ouzazarte and Mezouga, she was pretty confident about her ability to look after herself.

What she had not been prepared for was being lost in the Fez Medina at exactly the moment when the usual crowds had gone indoors to eat and the streets became totally empty. When a young man had offered to guide her she became even more fearful and somehow managed to find Riad Rcif.

What happened next was an act of Ramadan kindness. Hicham, even though he had not finished breaking his fast, got changed and told her he would walk with her down to Rcif where he had his car parked. He would then drive her to her hotel.

As she left, the woman glanced around the room and whispered "Thank you".

The look of relief on her face was more nourishing than anything on the table.



Halfway through Ramadan

So, as we were discussing... halfway through Ramadan.

Everyone's Ramadan is different. For my friend Driss, who works every day as a builder, there is a sense that he has conquered the first half. "Just another half to go, ' he says stoically. "What is hardest? Not having a cigarette during the day".

Well, Driss, help is at hand. Dr Ali Ahmed Mashael, the Grand Mufti in the Islamic Affairs and Charitable Activities Department of Dubai says: "The use of nicotine patches in order to refrain from smoking during the month of Ramadan is permitted and does not break the fast. The patch is used as a medicine, and is not consumed as a food item, is the rationale behind this rule. Anything that enters the body though the skin such as an injection or in this case a nicotine patch and is meant to repair rather than feed the body does not break the fast".

For Mustapha, who is spending most of his time sleeping or watching television, Ramadan's cup is half empty. "Only half to go," he says wistfully. "It is going so fast this year." However, he (and almost every Moroccan) is in trouble with the Grand Mufti, who has declared, "It is not permissible for a Muslims to watch TV series. This should not be only in Ramadan, but during the rest of the year as well. In Ramadan, people fasting and watching such serials will surely spoil their fast. The Muslim who is fasting during Ramadan should devote his time to worship and reading the Quran."

But the Grand Mufti would surely approve of the more than 200 young people for whom Ramadan tension is growing as they plunge into the highly competitive world of Qur'anic recitation.

 The National competition for Mohammed VI Qur’an memorisation and declamation award opened on Monday in Rabat, with some 246 people, including 28 females, are taking part in the event after succeeding in the preliminary phases organised locally by the regional offices of Islamic Affairs in coordination with the Councils of Ulema. The jury is composed of Moroccan Ulema specialised in declamation.

Qur'an recital competition in Rabat

Someone who is not fasting, but copping flack over Ramadan is David Abraham, CEO of Britain's Channel 4. He's been grilled by members of the British parliament over the decision to broadcast the call to prayer.

Ralph Lee, Channel 4's head of factual programming, said: "The calls to prayer prompt Muslims to carry out quiet moments of worship, but hopefully they'll also make other viewers sit up and notice that this event is taking place. Observing the adhan on Channel 4 will act as a nationwide tannoy system, a deliberate 'provocation' to all our viewers in the very real sense of the word."

Lee added in an article in the Radio Times: "No doubt Channel 4 will be criticised for focusing attention on a 'minority' religion but that's what we're here to do – provide space for the alternative and a voice to the under-represented.

The decision to broadcast the call to prayer is to be applauded. However, just across the "ditch" in France, tensions have been running for several nights after rioting broke out. The cause? A woman wearing a full hijab, in contravention of French law. The entire mess could have been avoided if the police had exercised a little Ramadan tolerance.

Ramadan food for thought

For those who think that fasting in Morocco is hard work, spare a thought for Muslims in Iraq and Afghanistan, where there is an upsurge in sectarian violence, Syria, where the full-scale bloodshed continues unabated, and Egypt where tensions are running high and the death toll is mounting. And pause to reflect on the impoverished everywhere, for whom a food-laden iftar table is only a dream.

The Ramadan cup may be half empty or half full, but it is a cup we share.

See all the Ramadan Diary excerpts - RAMADAN DIARY

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